Cool air from the bus vents mixed with the faint smell of packed breakfast as we left Marmaris in the dark with my parents. The long drive was actually one of the best parts: smooth roads, a careful driver and big windows for watching the countryside change from coastal greens to pale winter fields. Our guide used the quiet stretches to explain the geology and history, so by the time we saw the white terraces we already understood what we were looking at. Short rest stops were timed well, though the first one was a bit crowded and slow. Walking barefoot on the travertines felt odd in the chilly air, but the warm water made up for it. The visit to the ancient theatre in Hierapolis at the end of the day felt like a calm reward before the sleepy ride back.